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February 19, 2010
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:iconalexgarner:
Process for Pale Lord:

So as you can see, I started the piece by scribbling out a rough figure on my cintiq, which I don't always do. Sometimes I prefer to block in big shapes first. Next, I took a photo and began messing it up (much like the typical Craig Mullins' speedpainting technique) to force out interesting random shapes and values. After that, it was just a matter of adjusting and tweaking until I started seeing a desirable structure. I then worked on value, added some color, and then refined until I was reasonably satisfied.
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:iconbcrice:
~BcRice May 15, 2013  Professional Traditional Artist
When you talk about adding values (in gray scale), are you doing that via a single layer with a certain level of opacity? Or do you use multiple layers at varying opacity?

And when you get to the colors, are you using a specific filter like Multiply/Overlay, etc? It doesn't look like you break your colors down into flats like would be with traditional coloring, so I'm assuming that you don't mess with masks too much with the actual coloring. Or do you?

Thanks for any feedback. Love your work! (and I'll look up Craig Mullins as well!!)
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:iconalexgarner:
*AlexGarner May 15, 2013  Professional Digital Artist
The number of levels vary. Sometimes it's flattened. Other times I have a few layers on top. There's no system to it. A common thing I do is a 50% opacity overlay layer on top of the layers I'm working to sharpen values and add subtle detail.

I do use masks for color quite a bit. For each color, I mask off an area and then inside that mask I color using a layer set to color mode. Below that color layer (still inside the mask), I usually add a levels or brightness contrast layer to modify the value of that color. It's a pretty involved process but it allows me to tweak color and value endlessly. I'm currently looking for more organic ways to apply color but it doesn't come naturally to me so I still use this technique for now.

Best!
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:iconbcrice:
~BcRice May 15, 2013  Professional Traditional Artist
Interesting. So you're using the masks not as like "skin, hair, jacket, pants" but more like "section A, section B, section C"?

And just so I'm clear, you're rarely varying the actual opacity of the *brush*, you work more at using a full opacity brush on various opacity-level layers?

I see some digital painters who use a 25-30% opacity brush on a single layer for all their gray tones, and that just bewilders me because it seems so challenging to backtrack or redo something, ya know?

Thanks!
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:iconalexgarner:
*AlexGarner May 15, 2013  Professional Digital Artist
I actually do make separate masks for skin, hair, black leather, etc.. Mostly because I usually work with high-contrast colorful costumes.

I go between 50% opacity brush to 100%. Mostly stay at 100% though. I like to be bold early and then go subtler later.
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:iconpolarityplus:
Thanks for sharing your process:)
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:iconbaquitania:
~baquitania Jul 22, 2010  Professional Digital Artist
Don't punish us all just cause Mr. Townsend can't spell... just kidding, thank you for some insight into your process.
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:iconblackfeathers:
~blackfeathers Apr 23, 2010  Professional Digital Artist
quick question, how long did this take you? :)
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:iconalexgarner:
*AlexGarner Apr 23, 2010  Professional Digital Artist
Hard to remember, but I believe it took a few hours. Not too long :)
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:iconblackfeathers:
~blackfeathers Apr 27, 2010  Professional Digital Artist
A true master! Salute. :D
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:iconzombiegnu:
~ZombieGnu Mar 12, 2010  Student
I love to see other artist's technique. I am boggled how you did the floor tiles so perfect. Possibly that was talent. xD Amazing work~
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